Restaurant review: NYYÓ
Smart modern cooking that wants to put a different kind of Vietnamese food on the map.
Rue du Bailli 38, 1050 Ixelles, Belgium
What’s good? First the rules — there’s no greasy spring rolls and no pho, the once-trendy soup that has become the best-known Vietnamese dish in the world. Instead, there’s smoky charred okra to dip into mounds of whipped tofu and chilli oil; the beef and sticky rice croquettes are rich and crispy; and the show-stopping Thit Kho pork belly explodes into a fatty broth in your mouth.
What’s not? NYYÓ is popular, in the way you don’t want somewhere this good to be. Even on a rainy Tuesday night the restaurant is packed and tables are reserved a week in advance.
Vibe: Pastel walls and heavy lampshades. This is a place to sit and drink three cocktails before you even think about ordering. Service is fast, but the sharing plates come well-spaced out to avoid a pileup.
Who’s picking up the check? Plates range from €9 for a spicy cucumber salad to €18 for the mussels, and they recommend getting two or three per person. As a result, the crowd is largely young, well-paid EU staff who want a refined spot to meet for dinner on the cycle home.
Spotted: Forget your bubble favorites and move over Charles Michel, NYYÓ has drawn in the likes of Dua Lipa and Elijah Wood to sample its take on Vietnamese cuisine.
Insider tip: Ask for a table inside the intimate alcoves opposite the bar — it’ll impress whoever your date is.
Fun fact: NYYÓ is the brainchild of owner Linh Nam, born in Belgium to Vietnamese immigrants, who came back to Brussels after spending years working in IT in New York.
How to get there: In the center of Ixelles’ trendy Châtelain neighborhood, you’re just a short walk from Avenue Louise — head for Rue du Bailli by tram or bus.
Review published on October 3, 2024. Illustration by Natália Delgado/POLITICO.